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| Washing and Claying Learn how to use the two bucket method with grit guard and how to clay properly. |
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O-kay I will let you know. Mr. I can get it locally. you're killing me here.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to kenny1775 For This Useful Post: | ||
Buddy (10-03-2008) | ||
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Since I always clay before polishing, the actual claying process itself doesn't really take me that long. I also clay as I wash to cut down on time if I know I'm going polish afterward. I can clay a mid-size sedan in about 15 minutes using this method.
However, if I'm just doing like a clay and wax, I always make sure I take my time on the claying process. Sometimes I clay as I wash very carefully or I clay as a separate step depending on my time constraints. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Denzil For This Useful Post: | ||
Buddy (10-03-2008) | ||
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For what its worth I always clay whenever i'm doing a full detail with any type of correction. Also even on a regualr detail if it fails the plastic bag test, I will still take the time to clay and do a light polish before I put on any LSP.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TWISTEDFRAME For This Useful Post: | ||
Buddy (10-03-2008) | ||
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I would like to apologize to Slanguage for hi jacking his post. I'm very sorry. Clay just does that to me. I will try to make it up to you.
![]() On the other side of that I would like to thank him for starting this thread. I did learn more and I do feel better about clay and the process of it. Thank You!!!
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Polishing and detailer's clay are very different processes. One good reason to clay before you polish; polishing can result in smoothing and rounding the surface contamination it making it significantly harder to remove later. Although a polish / compound will remove the contamination there is a risk is that the abrasive particles will become embedded in the foam pad, which will cause surface scratches / marring by making the foam /polish more abrasive than necessary and may cause deep scratches
See article DetaiingWki - Automotive Detailing Clay - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?title=Main_Page Last edited by togwt; 10-03-2008 at 10:20 AM. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to togwt For This Useful Post: | ||
Buddy (10-03-2008) | ||
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I just clayed my S2000 last night. This is a car that I maintain feverishly, but I haven't done "the whole thing" in about a year. The car has looked great to me for that entire year. I was *astonished* at the amount of debris the clay picked up.
I'm also now convinced that just any old clay is *not* as good as any other clay. The one I used yesterday was from the local outfit, Majestic Solutions. It was bloody expensive, and I imagine I got taken, at nearly $30 . BUT - this stuff really amazed me. Along the driver side rear fender up top, there's always been this roughness to the paint - almost like the car had been repainted there (it has not been). The OTC clay bars - Mother's, Meguiar's - didn't do anything to correct that, so I figured there was no correcting it. Not true. This stuff made all that roughness go away completely.For whatever it's worth, there was a LOT of contamination all over the rear bumper of the car. As I understand it, this is typical, and caused by the turbulent air that falls off the back of a car as it travels down the road. EDIT: What I meant to convey here is this. What I've now found is that some clay is better than other clay. The stuff I bought from Majestic corrected that roughness on the driver side rear fender better than either the Meguiar's or the Mother's OTC stuff. Hope I didn't confuse anyone. Last edited by krshultz; 10-07-2008 at 11:29 AM. Reason: typos. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to krshultz For This Useful Post: | ||
Buddy (10-03-2008) | ||