[carados]

OK so i washed dads truck today neglect? well...

"i am supposed to wax i figured washing every couple months was enough"

well his hood is cracking dont think there is much of a fix there , hazing and sap build up.

thanks ahead

[Nica]

Look like a a good detail is reauired for that vehicle.

The hazing is not a problem, just needs a good polish.

As for the sap buil up, you'll be claying the vehicle so it should help if not you can try using some Tarminator, it should help out.

You'll have to go through the motions though:

• Wash with two bucket method with grit guard
• Clay, may need an aggresive clay bar.
• Dry
• Tape up.
• Polish, if your new at detailing a PC will be your friend if your a rotary user use a rotary or flex..ect..ect..
• Protect via wax or sealant.

This should leave a fresh looking paint.

Hope this helps.

[carados]

yea that is the process actually have bought a bunch of stuff to play with and his truck will be one of them i think the hood may be a goner though if you look close a lot of spidering in the paint almost makes me wonder is they painted it right at the factory.

I need to post my recent purchase pics got all kinds of "junk"

[Nica]

Sounds like the truck is the perfect canditate to test things on

Pictures of purchases...lol "junk" can't wait to see them

[supercharged]

you might need a clay bar after 2-3 weeks of not washing your car...washing it on regular basis is very important.

[Al-53]

Well first off ..the paint thats seen cracking and upheaving is failing...in time it will just flake off...it was improper paint prep at the base and primer coat..what happens its the open cracks will absorb water and primer will absorb it also and rust blooms will start in time...

Now for the pine sap blobs...get some plastic razors ..and a ice cube..freeze the glob and then pop them off with the razor...they pop off very easy this way...then wipe the remaining sap with Turpintine....

you could clay the hood but you may encounter the clay grabbing and sticking to the paint defects like the cracks and leaving clay in them....I would just do a good polishing on the defect areas and seal it

A strip and repaint is in order for those areas...in time it gets worse if not taken care of...its not clear coat failure..its a failure right to the primer...

AL

[carados]

thanks for input so far

best place to find plastic razors?
would those be good to assits in pinstripe removal?
or just use pinstrip removal eraser wheel?

[Al-53]

Originally Posted by carados

thanks for input so far

best place to find plastic razors?
would those be good to assits in pinstripe removal?
or just use pinstrip removal eraser wheel?

Most body shop supply stores have the razors...I think even harbor frieght has them....to remove the pin stipping get the 3M eraser wheel.....now are the pin stripes over the paint or under the clear ....or painted on ...if over the paint the wheel works great...if under it will not work...if painted on usally a medium to heavy type leveler type polish will remove them with a DA or rotary..wet sanding will work on painted ones also..but a lot of work and you need a rotary to correct the wet sanded areas...2000-2500 grit...but you need to be careful to not comprimise the under laying paint...getting it to thin..by over sanding

Al

[carados]

cool...

Actually all the stripes are sticker just heard poisitive and negative about the wheel

I have to get the waltrip signature off my silver truck, dont mind the strip just hate the sig

another post you said you used like 20-30 mf what type and from where?

i have a few from cg and ag and a bunch of the sams but it seems even the cg are china made

	AG AutoGlym