[SpoiledMan]

1:1 is way too strong. 7 or 8:1 is where you want to be.

[Scott's Mobile Detailing]

haaha looks like everyone has thier own take on how to use it lol...so it seems to work good on alot of stuff lol

[Jimmie]

I've settled on 8:1 after trying other dilutions.

[SpoiledMan]

I'll add that personally I stopped using it. It dried my hands out some awful.

[Grouse]

IMHO one should always strive to find dedicated products for the application/ process you are working on.

Woolite has a number of issues that do not lend to long term quality care of interior car parts and components.

Despite what people say i can still get it to fluoresce with a black light. That means it has uv brighteners. This can lead to premature UV degradation in areas that need protection from UV. IE dash, plastics, leather.

On top of that you are applying a detergent that is meant to be rinsed fully. IE flush rinsed. into a situation where it is not flush rinsed. As it dry's it will re attract dirt. Because that is what detergents are designed to do. This can over a period of a few details lead to rapid resoiling with some pretty nasty effects.

Leather does not react well to wet products. Water is the fastest way to "dry" out the leather of it's natural oils and tannins. making it slick and stiff. When using woolite, yes even on coated or protected, you speed up this process. The leather will look clean, but it will become dry and brittle aiding in the creasing and cracking.

my 2 cents in a world of 20 dollar bills.

[Pats300zx]

Originally Posted by Grouse

IMHO one should always strive to find dedicated products for the application/ process you are working on.

Woolite has a number of issues that do not lend to long term quality care of interior car parts and components.

Despite what people say i can still get it to fluoresce with a black light. That means it has uv brighteners. This can lead to premature UV degradation in areas that need protection from UV. IE dash, plastics, leather.

On top of that you are applying a detergent that is meant to be rinsed fully. IE flush rinsed. into a situation where it is not flush rinsed. As it dry's it will re attract dirt. Because that is what detergents are designed to do. This can over a period of a few details lead to rapid resoiling with some pretty nasty effects.

Leather does not react well to wet products. Water is the fastest way to "dry" out the leather of it's natural oils and tannins. making it slick and stiff. When using woolite, yes even on coated or protected, you speed up this process. The leather will look clean, but it will become dry and brittle aiding in the creasing and cracking.

my 2 cents in a world of 20 dollar bills.

Thats great info Aaron. What have you been using as a replacement for leather and interior cleaning??

[Grouse]

Honestly i have 3-4 depending on the severity of the interior.

Plastic, vinyl, and odd non leather bits.
Poo bag car:
I will clean with 1z plastic and a boars hair brush. Then i will top off with 1z cockpit premium.

Medium dirty car:
I will clean with 1z blitz and boars hair brush. I will top off with 1z cockpit premium.

Lightly dirty car:
I will clean with 1z cock pit premium boars hair and a yellow Micro fiber.


Leather care.

First vacuum and remove chunks.

Heavily soiled car:
Brush with leather masters strong cleaner and boars hair brush. Let dwell for 30 seconds. Buff off with yellow MF. Repeat process after 20 min.

Apply leather masters leather vital with foam applicator pad repeat process after LM vital has fully soaked in.

Apply Leather masters protection cram via foam pad.

Lightly soiled car:

Strong cleaner x1,
Vital x2
protection x1

Polish seal and clean cars. (my basic package.

1z leather care x1

	1Z Einszett Products

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

Fantastic information grouse!!

[Nica]

Yup, I agree great info there Grouse, thank you for sharing

[P1et]

This is some good info, thanks for posting!

PS: I still hate doing interiors!!!