[advanced detail]

I'm thinking of getting one of these systems but not sure which one is better. From what I've read they seem to both do an equal job but I've also read that the leatherique smells bad, which is why I'm leaning towards Leather Master. If anyone can give me any input on these products I would appreciate it and thanks in advance.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

Thanks for posting this I was going to ask the same thing!

[1f1fan]

I have both.

Leatherique - Works well, the smell is not bad at all so I wouldn't worry about that. The key to the Leatherique twins is letting the conditioner dwell on the seat in a warm environment, then hitting it up with the cleaner. It leaves the leather soft with a matte finish that is not greasy at all. I also cleaned my leather wrapped steering wheel and it did a good job.

Leather Master - Also a good product line. They offer two cleaners, Stong and Soft, but you can cut the strong cleaner with distilled water to get a less aggressive cleaner, so I didn't get the soft. They also offer Vital (a conditioner) and a Protection cream. I have not used the Vital yet, but the strong and protection cream work well and have a very, very mild smell. LM left a nice soft, matte, and non-greasy finish.

I like both products, however the long dwell time needed with the Leatherique and the fact I can get Leather Masters locally has me leaning toward the Leather Masters products for future purchases. (I am considering selling some Leatherique)

I don't think you can go wrong with either one. If you want something to clean, condition and protect in a shorter period of time with less odor, go with Leather Masters. If you don't mind waiting for the conditioner to work before using the cleaner Leatherique is fine. Again, both are good products that leave a soft, matte, non-greasy finish. The Leatherique smell is not bad, but to me, the Leather Masters is less noticeable.

[Pooter]

Leather Masters is simply put the King of Leather. Will not use anything else not in my detail and definately not @ home.

[tod071]

Haven't used Leather Master, but Connolly is a great product that has given me great results.

[dsms]

Just got my first bottle of strong cleaner by LM from detailers domain I cant wait to test it out.

[advanced detail]

Thanks for the responces I'm going to get some Leather Master.I needed to replace the conditioner I'm using now and it sounds like LM is the one.

[brianja]

Originally Posted by Pooter

Leather Masters is simply put the King of Leather. Will not use anything else not in my detail and definately not @ home.

I've been pleased with leather master, too.

What do you use to apply the cleaner? I know the directions say to work it to a foam with a sponge. Do you find following this to be the best method? If so, what type of sponge?

Thanks.

[togwt]

The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.

Basic Leather care - Basic Leather Care - Auto Geek Car Care, Car Wax and Auto Detailing Forum

Many of the newer vehicles do not use natural leather hides anymore Approximately 80% of vehicle manufacturers are using (thermoplastic) polyurethane covered pigmented leather for their interior upholstery. Pigmented leather simply means that the finished leather or polyurethane covering has been coloured (you’ve never seen grey cows have you?) Are we to take care of the leather or the protective covering? The answer is to take care of the protective topcoat and the leather will take care of itself.

Automotive leather upholstery is made from natural chrome tanned hides, which is pigmented and some are then further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to make it more viable for automotive seating protecting the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil is leathers worst enemy.

The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hide’s results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in and therefore there is no need to supplement them. Traditional type conditioner’s cannot penetrate the finished hide, but rather sit on the surface until they are removed by contact with clothing or evaporate. The same is true of most oil or cream-based conditioners, but they will also have an adverse effect on polyurethane.

Water-based leather care products will permeate the finished leather or the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller; oil has larger molecules than water and is unable to penetrate the surface. Incidentally; water will not harm upholstery leather, tanning is carried out by immersing the hide in water.

Compare automobile upholstery [finished pigmented leather] to a vehicles paint surface with a clear coat;
1. A base material (metal) with a colour coat of water-based polymer paint
[Leather hide pigmented with a water-based polymer resin]

2. A water-based polymer clear coat to provide protection
[Water-based polyethylene clear coating to provide protection]

3. Paint doesn't need oils to feed it (whatever Zymol says) nor does leather; neither is a living thing.
[Leather was removed from a dead animal, it’s then fat-liquored to preserve its oils and then sealed, and it doesn't need oils or creams to feed or condition it, even if they could permeate the various coverings]

As the materials and production methods that are used on automobiles change; we need to adapt to them and adjust products used and their application methodologies to keep pace with them