[richy]

Dust..I have tried 2 non-diminishing compounds lately, the X3 and Megs 105. I found in both cases, I spread it for a second or two on ONE (1000 RPM) and then bump it to 6 (3000 RPM). For both compounds, it works quickly and finishes down amazingly well. Try using a purple foamed wool, do Megs 1st and follow it with X3..WOW!! Those are my findings, I know they differ from some on here.

[Asphalt Rocket]

Dust I am glad you got M105 working but, not trying to rain on your parade but you actually haven't got the hang of it if you are using aides to get it to work-i.e. the QD priming of the pad and adding optimum. Polishes are made to work on their own, and it they were not I am sure the manufactors would put it on the instructions. The biggest part of your problem with it is you are using a foam pad, switch over to atleast a foamed wool pad like Richy suggested and I have also and you will not need any aids to work the polish.

[D&D Auto Detailing]

The biggest part of your problem is that your technique is off. 105 works with any pad, wool or foam. You just need to adjust your technique depending on what machine and pad you're using. However, I think 105 is easier to use with wool and will obviously give more cut and work faster. Keep practicing, Im sure youll get the hang of it soon. Otherwise, I suggest you switch to a different compound with a longer working time.

[Dust2Glory]

Originally Posted by Asphalt Rocket

Dust I am glad you got M105 working but, not trying to rain on your parade but you actually haven't got the hang of it if you are using aides to get it to work-i.e. the QD priming of the pad and adding optimum. Polishes are made to work on their own, and it they were not I am sure the manufactors would put it on the instructions. The biggest part of your problem with it is you are using a foam pad, switch over to atleast a foamed wool pad like Richy suggested and I have also and you will not need any aids to work the polish.

Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detailing

The biggest part of your problem is that your technique is off. 105 works with any pad, wool or foam. You just need to adjust your technique depending on what machine and pad you're using. However, I think 105 is easier to use with wool and will obviously give more cut and work faster. Keep practicing, Im sure youll get the hang of it soon. Otherwise, I suggest you switch to a different compound with a longer working time.

Thanks for the tips guys, but even the way im using it now, it's a whole lot faster then PGC, and alot stronger cut that OPT HC... so yes I haven't mastered it by itself, but the results i'm getting are far superior than with anything else i've tired, including M95

[Strs90]

What is the correct technique and nuances of using M105? If the abrasives do not diminish then should you only do one pass? How can you finish down if the abrasives do not diminish?? I think I read someone say that the product would dry out to fast if spread first?

[HPIA4v2]

I follow the discussion on meguairsonline.com and 2 things about meg105:
1) it design for rotary
2) wool pad not foam pads

Outside these 2 requirements you are on your own. I use Flex and like dust2glory has to resort to QD on foam pads.

To me there is no "one" way of doing things that's absurd. It's like baking cake. You can beat the whole egs for Genoa cake base on stainless steel at high for long time or medium if using copper bowl faster(the copper create copper salt with egg yolk to bind). At the end the result is the same so what?

[ehuth1]

I used M105 with green edge foam on a cyclo and took out 1500 grit wetsand scratches on my old 4runner. LSP ready at that! You basically just have to work a small area and start working the polish as soon as the pad hits the paint. The cyclo has one speed so I think this contributed to good results as well.

So not only was it designed for a rotary, it will work with a DA if used correctly. Foam or Wool just make sure you spur it to keep the build up from collecting, I found this to be a problem after a few panels.

	LSP Last Step Product, meaning protection either wax or sealant.

[Asphalt Rocket]

M105 will not be lsp ready at all, that is not a correct statement at all. It does look better than most compounds but it still needs to be gone over with sip and a finishing polish.

	LSP Last Step Product, meaning protection either wax or sealant.

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

To me there is no "one" way of doing things that's absurd. At the end the result is the same so what?

Maybe at the very end the results are the same. But one way IS faster and more effective. Thats all we're trying to show. No one is forcing you to listen to others advice.

Originally Posted by Asphalt Rocket

M105 will not be lsp ready at all, that is not a correct statement at all. It does look better than most compounds but it still needs to be gone over with sip and a finishing polish.

I agree.

[HPIA4v2]

Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detailing

Maybe at the very end the results are the same. But one way IS faster and more effective. Thats all we're trying to show. No one is forcing you to listen to others advice.



I agree.

Please show me how to work Meg105 using Flex with foam/Wool pads step by step. Instead of raining on dust2glory parade(this applies to all of us not any particular person).
I am all ears.