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Polishing Preparation is one of the most important steps to achieve a flawless finish, if you have any questions about how to properly polish a vehicle or would like to share tips on how to polish post here.

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Old 04-15-2008, 12:14 PM
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Default First polishing experience with the Flex 3401

Hi,

I'm very new to the detailing world and just bought a Flex 3401 (dual action). Here's the paint under 2x 250w bulbs:




Here's what I bought:
1x Flex 3401
2x Grit Guard Bucket Insert
1x Riccardo Clay Lubricant
2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" Blue
2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" Orange
2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" White
10x Tornado Buffing Towel
2x 100% Sheepskin Mitt
1x Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Wash
2x Snappy Clean Foam Pad Cleaner
Trim tape

1x Riccardo Clay
1x Menzerna SIP
1x Menzerna Nano
1x Poorboy's EX-P
1x Poorboy's Natty Blue

I was wondering...
1) With the SIP, what speed/pad should I start with? My initial plan was speed 5 and white pad, followed by speed 5 and orange pad if it doesn't work, followed by speed 6 and orange pad with slightly more pressure if it doesn't work.
2) With the Nano, what speed/pad should I start with? My initial plan was speed 5 and white pad.
3) What about the sealant & wax? With the 3401 or by hand?
4) I saw some videos on youtube with the PC, they suggest making reallllly slow movements up-down-left-right to ensure that the polish breaks down. Since the 3401 is different, I guess the rule is also different? What's the optimal movement speed for each phase?

Thank you!
Regards,
Yan
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:08 PM
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I'm at the same stage as you, just ordered my stuff and don't know how to start - so I'm waiting to heat what ppl reply.

Anyhow, I read some where that speed 2.5 or 3 on the FLEX is similar to speed 5 on the PC. So I was going to following the youTube references that say to run the PC at 5 or 6 to work the polish in moving 1 inch per second w/ 50% overlap. Since I'll be using the FLEX I'll just use setting 3 instead, once I get comfortable I might move up to a higher speed.

btw: I'm going to test things out on my Jeep first b/f moving to my BMW.
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:16 PM
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Here's what I found about the 3401...
Quote:
As for speed, don't worry about using max, max speed is your friend. That applies for the SIP and the Nano. For max shine, do two seperate applications of the Nano polish. One using the white pad, the second using the blue.

Don't stress too much about what kind of pattern you use to polish. Just make sure you are consistent in the number of passes over each area, and keep the buffer head moving at all times.
I'm worried about speed 6 being too aggressive.
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:23 PM
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here's a reference to the thread containing the chart I was talking about

Flex vs PC (table)

Max speed on the PC is 6, OPM of 6000, the Flex at 3.5 has an OPM of about 6000.

Max speed on the Flex is 6, OPM of 9600

My biggest worry is going at a high speed and drying out the polish too much. Despite that recommendation you found, I'm still gonna stay at 3.5 until I feel comfortable.
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haper View Post
here's a reference to the thread containing the chart I was talking about

Flex vs PC (table)

Max speed on the PC is 6, OPM of 6000, the Flex at 3.5 has an OPM of about 6000.

Max speed on the Flex is 6, OPM of 9600

My biggest worry is going at a high speed and drying out the polish too much. Despite that recommendation you found, I'm still gonna stay at 3.5 until I feel comfortable.
I agree that slower is better to learn, but eventually I think speed 6 should be used to make full use of the potential. Even if the polish breaks down much faster at speed 5 or 6, it doesn't mean you did wrong.

Most people agree that using the full potential (speed/power) of the 3401 gives a deeper / glossier finish than a perfectly exploited PC with the same products/pads.
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:40 PM
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For your reference, these are the notes I gathered from searching multiple web sites. btw: The recommendation you found suggesting two passes of nano w/ two different pads is the first I've heard doing that.

Your finish is a bit more marred then mine, you might want to use a more aggressive pad w/ the SIP like the yellow pad then the orange I plan to use.

I'm gonna error on the non-aggressive side (pads, speed, etc) - worst that can happen is after using SIP the first pass I find I didn't get much of the marring off, then I'll repeat w/ a more aggressive pad and speed. And by then I will have learned how to handle the Flex better.

5.5 Low Profile Orange Light Cutting Pads
use w/ menzerna SIP
nickel dime polish for 18 x 18 inch section
blot / rub polish from pad onto surface b4 turning on buffer to avoid splattering
start Flex at level 1 and move quickly
then up it to 3 or 4 and moving 1 inch per second over lapping 50%
just b4 poilish breaks down drop to 1 and do one last pass to minimize hazeing
3 – 5 mins until broken down
as polish breaks down lighten up the pressure and increase movement
remove w/ microfiber towel

CCS White 6.5 Inch Polishing Foam Pads
use w/ menzerna 106FF
blot / rub polish from pad onto surface b4 turning on buffer to avoid splattering
start flex at level 1 and move quickly
then up it to 3 or 4 and moving 1 inch per second over lapping 50%
just b4 poilish breaks down drop to 1 and do one last pass to minimize hazeing
3 – 5 mins until broken down
when almost broken down lighten pressure to shine
all scratches, spider webs should be gone
remove w/ microfiber towel

CCS Blue 6.5 Inch Finessing Foam Pad
use w/ jetseal 109 (sealant)
speed 1 or 2
no pressure, just weight of machine to spread wax
do not work in
remove w/ MF towel

CCS Blue 6.5 Inch Finessing Foam Pad
use w/ wax (some recommend waxing by hand)
speed 1 or 2
no pressure, just weight of machine to spread wax
do not work in
remove w/ MF towel or with MF bonnet over wool bonnet and flex
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:27 PM
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I did my first test tonight on a small section... WOW, the Flex really rockz.

1) Clay. I'm not too convinced of this step, the paint felt the same before and after. I'm not sure if I did it properly.
2) SIP. I started with the white pad at speed 4.5. The results weren't very good, still 30% scratches remaining.
3) SIP try #2. I used the orange pad at speed 6, with a bit more polish. WOW! 0% scratch remaining.
4) Nano polish. I used the white pad at speed 6 with a decent amount of polish. It came out really nice.

Here's the result before the sealant and the wax:


Not bad for a first polishing experience ever!

Some questions...
1) Is there a video on how-to clay?
2) I don't have pad cleaner yet. What's the best "home solution" to clean pads?

Thank you.
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:33 PM
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very nice result there. .
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:56 PM
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Great job on the paint correction!
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:38 PM
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Xcessiv, that is sweet - congrats !!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcessiv View Post
1) Is there a video on how-to clay?
YouTube - How to Clay Bar

I'm not a big fan of claying either. I took the advice to cut the bar into 6 pieces using one piece each for the hood, roof, trunk and 2 pieces for each side. Work a piece into the size of a small pancake, place it on your finger tips and rub. If you find your finger going through the clay then you are pushing / rubbing too hard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcessiv View Post
2) I don't have pad cleaner yet. What's the best "home solution" to clean pads?
Someone advised me to use regular dish detergent in a bucket and let them soak for a while, just go light w/ the soap, rinse them well and let them air dry. I think this is ok for the pads you are using for polish, but don't think its good for pads used for sealant and wax.

Couple of questions for you:

- how long did it take for the polish to break down at speed 4.5 and then at 6 ?
- how fast did you move the flax - 1 inch per second ?
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