[D&D Auto Detailing]

Lake Country purple foamed wool.

[Bernhard]

Thanks..

[MrPolished&Waxed]

why not higher rpms, anyone?

just for conversation....if it is not a diminishing abrasive how could it not work on harder clears?

both of these questions may not truly matter as far as results or technique go but in order to properly learn some things I think you need to be taught why you cant do certain things, then the proper way of doing something is more easily applied

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

Originally Posted by MrPolished&Waxed

why not higher rpms, anyone?

The nature of the compound makes it *flash* rather quickly, in comparision to other products... The higher rpm will creat more heat and thus, accelerate the *flashing* process

Originally Posted by MrPolished&Waxed

if it is not a diminishing abrasive how could it not work on harder clears?

I have used 105 on hard clears with great success..

Originally Posted by MrPolished&Waxed

both of these questions may not truly matter as far as results or technique go

All questions matter, these boards are for people to learn from and share their 1st hand experience so that others can use that as a stating guide or a *road map* ....

[SuperBee364]

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

One thing to think about to those peeps that cut 105 with other products to make it work like more traditional compounds: M95 works exactly like a traditional compound, you don't have to cut it with anything, and it costs a ton less than 105. If you don't like how 105 works, don't try to make it something it's not; just buy the other something. It'll save you time, money, and frustration in the end.

Hmm.. the more I think about this, the more I think I'm wrong...

Back when HTEC was all the rage, people would mix in some OP or OC to give it better working time. It made the product "something it wasn't"; something much better, actually. There's also other products that are quite the hit when mixed together. Scottwax's Pink Moose comes to mind. I also like to add a bit of 106 to SIP to get a longer working time out of it. Thinking about this stuff, and also Mindflux's discussions in the locked thread have me thinking that mixing products together often is the right thing to do... And no, I'm not just changing my mind cause fluxy is a friend of mine; we've argued about stuff before where we were both just stubborn and wouldn't change our minds. It's just that *this time* he *might* be right. (just don't get used to it, Fluxy. )

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Wow, this is interesting. You were 100% correct when you said it will safe you time, money, and frustration.

[SuperBee364]

There are two ways to think about it for sure.

[SuperBee364]

Originally Posted by MrPolished&Waxed

why not higher rpms, anyone?

just for conversation....if it is not a diminishing abrasive how could it not work on harder clears?

both of these questions may not truly matter as far as results or technique go but in order to properly learn some things I think you need to be taught why you cant do certain things, then the proper way of doing something is more easily applied

Higher RPM's make it flash too fast. At 1k RPM's I can squeeze 35 seconds or so out of it most of the time. I do put more pressure on the pad when I'm working 105, though, to help compensate for the slower speed.

It does *work* on hard clears, it just isn't the amazing "holy cow, look at how much correction I just did!" kind of result you get with it on medium hard and softer clears. To me, 105 on really hard clears is about like using OC on medium clears: good correction, but nothing major.

[DJBAILEY]

On harder clears when the PFW is not getting as much correction I switch to a Megs Solo light cutting yellow wool pad. Great combo when I don't want to waste time re-levelling a trashed surface. I've been afraid to use M105 with the burgandy heavy cutting wool pad.

[Denzil]

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Hmm.. the more I think about this, the more I think I'm wrong...

Back when HTEC was all the rage, people would mix in some OP or OC to give it better working time. It made the product "something it wasn't"; something much better, actually. There's also other products that are quite the hit when mixed together. Scottwax's Pink Moose comes to mind. I also like to add a bit of 106 to SIP to get a longer working time out of it. Thinking about this stuff, and also Mindflux's discussions in the locked thread have me thinking that mixing products together often is the right thing to do... And no, I'm not just changing my mind cause fluxy is a friend of mine; we've argued about stuff before where we were both just stubborn and wouldn't change our minds. It's just that *this time* he *might* be right. (just don't get used to it, Fluxy. )

That's some great insight Supe. I'm all for mixing products in order to achieve better results and/or less work-in time. However with M95 on the market, it wouldn't seem necessary to cut M105 with anything else considering M95's similar cut and drastically cheaper price tag.