[SuperBee364]

OK, so I get on the board after being gone for a week, and read the latest M105 thread that got locked... First, great job on the car, Dust2Glory, it looks *very* good.

Second.... I think we can all agree that M105 is one of *the* break through products of the year, if not the most controversial due to how hard/different it is to use.

There have been a *ton* of suggestions of how to use it. Some people are cutting it with other products, others are suggesting pad/speed combinations, etc. etc.

I'm hoping this thread will be where peeps can post *their* method that works for them.

I posted a very long disertation on my experiences with 105 on that other forum, and I'm sure you guys get tired of hearing me prattle on, so I'm gonna keep this short... er... at least, short for me...

I apply it directly to a PFW pad. One small thread all the way around the pad. I then apply the pad to the paint, and turn the rotary to 1k rpm. I *do not* pre-spread the polish like I normally do. Just start polishing from the spot the pad first hits the paint. I then do three passes through a 1.5' by 1.5' area. I know I've used the right amount of product if there is no appreciable residue at the end of the third pass. I adjust the amount of product so that there is just about nothing left by the time I'm done with the third. Using a PFW, at 1k rpms and three passes, I'm able to do some pretty serious correction, and on most paints, it'll finish down haze, swirl, compound mark free. NOTE that I didn't say "LSP ready". A defect free surface (to me, at least) doesn't mean "LSP ready". Even though 105 willl (most of the time) leave a surface that is *completely* free of defects (even holograms), it can still be greatly improved in the gloss department with a finishing polish. When a surface is defect free, *and properly glossed* is when I consider it "LSP ready".

Anyway, that's just my method, and it gives me pretty good, consistent results. If the paint is warm, I'll pre-spritz my pad with a bit of 425. This also helps on really soft clears, too.

One thing to think about to those peeps that cut 105 with other products to make it work like more traditional compounds: M95 works exactly like a traditional compound, you don't have to cut it with anything, and it costs a ton less than 105. If you don't like how 105 works, don't try to make it something it's not; just buy the other something. It'll save you time, money, and frustration in the end.

Edit: forgot to mention that M105 seems to lose alot of it's game on very hard clears. I actually get better results using two applications of SIP and PFW on really hard clears than I get with two applications of 105 and PFW. If you have some serious correction to do on really hard clear, you might be better off looking to a different compound than 95 or 105.. Maybe something like 3M Extra Cut or Presta UCC or UCCL.

	LSP Last Step Product, meaning protection either wax or sealant.

[Denzil]

Thanks for that Supe! That should help others on learning how to use M105.

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

One thing to think about to those peeps that cut 105 with other products to make it work like more traditional compounds: M95 works exactly like a traditional compound, you don't have to cut it with anything, and it costs a ton less than 105. If you don't like how 105 works, don't try to make it something it's not; just buy the other something. It'll save you time, money, and frustration in the end.

Well said.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

My process

Originally Posted by Deep Gloss Auto Salon

Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut Compound: What can I say; this stuff has made the rounds on many forums and for good reason. It cuts fast and hard. The thing is you must re-learn EVERYTHING you have ever learned about machine polishing you don’t:
•Start the machine speed off slow
•Speed up
•Break it down
•Slow down the speed of the machine
I start off at 1100 RPM, put some 105 on the paint, start compounding and count to 13, if the compound after 13 seconds comes off easy, that tells me I may be able to work it longer SO, I bump the speed up to 1300 and still count to 13. If the compound still comes off easy I try it again on speed 1300 BUT count to 16 if it still comes off easy I bump up to 1500 RPM and count to 16. if it still comes off easy I up my count to 20 and still use 1500 RPM.. Once any of the above steps makes the compound come of with difficulty I go to the last method that the compound was easy to remove.

[Mindflux]

I'm gonna sit this one out.

[Asphalt Rocket]

Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detailing

Well said.

Well said Superbee.

[Pats300zx]

Great info SB. I am surprised that you use it at 1K with such great results. I know alot of folks that use it a 1500 rpms. I wonder if this is contributing to the 105 flashing so quickly.

I agree 100% that this polish is one that has a huge learning curve.

[mixxer]

good post looking forward to reading more.

[richy]

i use it faster than you but am happy with my results.

[Bernhard]

What is a PFW pad? I don't know all the english words yet, so is there a guide or something?