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| Polishing Preparation is one of the most important steps to achieve a flawless finish, if you have any questions about how to properly polish a vehicle or would like to share tips on how to polish post here. |
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So I'm busy detailing this week. A fair amount of paint correction. What I'm finding is that 106FF is hard to take off.
IP comes off very easy as does SIP. But 106FF is another story. I've been resorting to a ISA 50/50 to get it off. I work it with a LC white pad/PC. Hasn't gone sideways on me yet. Never skips. Seems to do it's job fine. Am I working it too much? I try to take it easy. However if it dries out to any degree it's murder to take off. I can get anywhere from 80-95% off fairly easily with a MF, but the last of it is like bonded to the surface. Anybody have this issue? I've searched around and nobody else has seemed to mention this. Either I'm a candy-ass and can't take the physical demands of detailing (I'm on car 4, day 6 ) or I'm not doing things as they should be done.Ans is using ISA OK? Better technique? Thanks! Koll |
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I haven't read of this issue myself. I do have some just haven't used it yet, I'll find out this weekend when I "jewel" the paint. Do you condition the pad before and during application?
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These polishes were designed to work with high speed rotary polisher’s, utilizing friction to break-down the diminishing abrasives, while in the controlled temperature / humidity environment (working temp range 60 – 800F (15-260C) of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line.
Oil cannot hide defects, but it can actually enhance them, Menzerna uses an oil in water emulsion for lubrication (white mineral oil and glycerine) as a medium to suspend the abrasives in and to reduce the heat generated from polishing; evenly spread the polish at a low rpm over the whole panel until the oils spread. Ensure a uniform even coat, so when you do work the polish in at higher speeds, the abrasives and oil lubrication work in tandem, if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top inspection, DuPont® Prep-Sol® 3919S™ is a slow evaporating cleaning solvent, but do not allow to dry on paint surface or Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) A surface wipe-down is considered good practice after polishing |
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I'm using @ 70 degrees. Primed with water and spin dry. No issues with gumming or slinging or anything on the application side. It's just when it flashes (much harder to tell opposed to SIP), it's very hard to physically remove the polish with a MF. The drier it is (sometimes it'll haze around the edges) the harder it is to take up.
As a result, I've resorted to IPA to get the rest of it up. |
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yes, I've experianced the same with Menzerna. Sometimes no matter which product I use I get the same results, this happens mostly during winter though.I do the same IPA and lots of elbow grease, the thing that bugs me is that if you have a soft clear coat vehicle it almost makes you work twice becuase I've some times induced micro marring during the IPA wipe down
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![]() Oh yeah, relative humidity is -eh- probably around 70%. Typical Seattle stuff. Like I said, application is great. It's just the removal. |