[Nica]

Well this is just my opinion and I should stress that I do this for shere pleasure so for me it's not about the money.

Having said that, I educate the vehicle owners as much as I can by explaining to them what exactly the process will be and why it will take so long. For the most part they get it and understand...as to letting the vehicle owners choose, in my case no. I do what I feel is nesesary to achive the right results, for me I'm all about blowing the owner away and I will go out of my way to do so...but like I said that's just me. Now if I was doing this for a living that would be a completely differnt story.

People seem to respond better when they see the before and after pictures, the transformation. But I explain to them what it took for me to get the results they so enjoy.

As for using finishing polish or AIO, I don't like using finishing polish or AIO as a one step, I prefer to use Menzerna Intensive Polish (85RD3.02) with a polishing pad..but that is clear coat dependent of course. For the most part Menzerna Intensive Polish will do a great job and removing swirls but depending how bad the state of the vehicle will determine the outcome but like I said for the most part I personaly don't rely on finishing polishes as a one step process...but just me.

	AIO All-In-One

[911Fanatic]

I'm going to throw a curveball into this and mess it all up I know but, here goes. Clients budget and timeframe are equally important.
Scenario #1 - Has to be done in a day within a small budget. Use a good one step polish/wax or polish/ sealant . Right now I like Menz One Step Acrylic Jacket. Its a 60/40 mix of 106FF and FMJ. Removes light scratches and leaves a very shiny finish. The other way to go is with a glaze but then thats two steps ,at which point you should be polishing stuff out, not hiding it.
Scenario #2 - Client has a larger budget and a little more time. My go to in this situation is SIP on LC CCS Green. Removes quite a bit and finishes down LSP ready - no hologramming. This can be done in a long day if need be.
Having said this, I try very hard to persuade people to at least allow me to go the SIP route if the car needs it because at the end of the day, its my name on it. I would almost rather not do it if I can't do it my way. The last thing I want is a potential client looking at the job I did for a client who wouldn't spend the money necessary and be deterred because it looks like crap still.

	LSP Last Step Product, meaning protection either wax or sealant.

[Denzil]

911, that's something I definitely keep in mind. However, I always try my best to make sure the client understands what they are getting for their targeted budget.

I can only hope that if that client refers a friend, he/she does so rightfully and explains that the vehicle could look better if the client actually paid more for it.

We have to remember that our clients can tell their friends the story however they want to so all we can do is hope they relay the information correctly.

[Bence]

I was talking about true one-steppers, not just one-step polishing. 1.5 step is (or is it 1.25?) when I remove the 3.02 with OCW for example.

But for me, true one-step jobs are when I just have to go over the vehicle once. No more LSPs, no spray thingies.

When I do a single polishing step, I'm using 3.02, Scholl S17 or Optimum Compound.

[mixxer]

I have used SIP with orange pad as a 1 step paint correction before. Its not the best thing to do as but sometimes the clients budget does not allow for 2 steping and they want to get the most correction they can get with one step at the expense of a little more gloss.Sip does finish down rather nice .

[scheerspeed]

my normal 1-step is what i call my "abracadabra" package. in know... it's a funny name, but people like it....

it's also my most popular.

on a dark car i would usually go over the entire car with 106FF and a Green LC CCS pad at 1500 RPM. if any scratches remain on the hood, trunk, or tops of the doors, i just do it over again anyway, without asking for extra pay. because at the end of the day, i want my customer to be able to show off their car to their friends, and their friends to be amazed and want me to do their cars as well. seriously, how long does it take to do the hood, trunklid, and the tops of the doors, a extra hour? in my opinion that extra hour is worth the "wow" from the customer vs. the "it looks good".

however, on a lighter car i will usually go with SIP on a white or green CCS, and i will make sure it breaks down as much as possible and do my last pass on 900RPM.

then i top that with either jetseal and CG 5050/Pete's 53 or ezcreme/collinite or RB OE.

i hope that makes sense...

i have also found that if the customer watches, and likes to hang around while you detail, they see how much hard effort is put into it, and they end up paying more than i quote them.

[Denzil]

Originally Posted by scheerspeed

my normal 1-step is what i call my "abracadabra" package. in know... it's a funny name, but people like it....

it's also my most popular.

on a dark car i would usually go over the entire car with 106FF and a Green LC CCS pad at 1500 RPM. if any scratches remain on the hood, trunk, or tops of the doors, i just do it over again anyway, without asking for extra pay. because at the end of the day, i want my customer to be able to show off their car to their friends, and their friends to be amazed and want me to do their cars as well. seriously, how long does it take to do the hood, trunklid, and the tops of the doors, a extra hour? in my opinion that extra hour is worth the "wow" from the customer vs. the "it looks good".

however, on a lighter car i will usually go with SIP on a white or green CCS, and i will make sure it breaks down as much as possible and do my last pass on 900RPM.

then i top that with either jetseal and CG 5050/Pete's 53 or ezcreme/collinite or RB OE.

i hope that makes sense...

i have also found that if the customer watches, and likes to hang around while you detail, they see how much hard effort is put into it, and they end up paying more than i quote them.

Keep in mind when I say this and it is subjective but there may be some of those friends of your clients that won't be able to tell the difference between "wow" and "looks good". Not everyone has "DB" eyes if you know what I mean. Also, it's up to your client to represent you in the most honest way. If they pay for a one-step and it doesn't look perfect (since most of us desire perfection), it's your client's discretion whether or not to disclose that that was what they paid for.

It's great going over cars with medium polishes to give your clients the best bang for the buck but considering how SIP behaves (and other similar polishes that leave behind oils), you always have to consider whether it really will finish down correctly. Of course, this all depends on the hardness of the clear coat and other minor factors.

[911Fanatic]

I would like to know more about this D151. Anyone?

[Denzil]

Originally Posted by 911Fanatic

I would like to know more about this D151. Anyone?

I believe you may be referring to M151 or Meguiar's (Detailer Line) Paint Reconditioning Cream.

[porta]

If I am doing a one stepper, I use a wax polish like Scholl A15, Automagic Xp swirl remover or something like that. But I prefere to do a one step polish with like Menzerna PO85RD3.02/Scholl S17 or 3M 80439 extra fine cut and then a spray wax. This will give the best result since I will remove swirls instead of removing some and hiding some.