[sneek]

LOL being a typical Meguair's guy I applied it to the whole car, and wiped it off. Waited 5 mins and sprayed it with cold water.

I am pretty sure you are supposed to apply it wait 5 mins for it to hazy, wipe it off, then wait 3-4 hours then do a cold water wipe down. I will wait for Mike to chime in though....I don't really know that much about this wax.

[Calgarydetail]

application of vintage is alittle difrent then alot of waxes on the market. I have tired diffrent methods... i have tried had application, foam applicator polishing pal... ect.

I have found the best method is to apply the wax via polishing pal that has been heated by a light. This allows a nice smooth even coat of wax to be applied.
I have found if the applictor is not heated it just dosent seem to spread and be applied probperly.Heat seems to be needed. not alot but some.

I apply vintage to the whole car (zymol says wait 5 minutes) I find by the time I have reached the end the begging is ready to be buffed.

It takes an itital buff to get most of the wax off. I then go over the whole car again ust to make it look better (i do this with any wax not just vintage)

now heres where we get tricky... after 3 to 4 hous the was is goign to "sweat" it seems to realse oils that need to be buffed off again. The oils looks like buffer trails.. its weird but thats the way it is.

So after waiting 3 or 4 hours the car needs a wipe down. You can use water, soap (anything that will not harmm the paint).. i have found the field glaze works best.... but the key to it is to do a wipe down 3-4 hours latter to level the wax as wel as clean up the residue...

Yeah it sounds labour intensive... its not as bad as it sounds.. but boy is it ever worth it... for those who use the less expensive zymols and swissvax's.. give it a try.; you may be surpised at how much better the paint comes out

[FMINUS]

Originally Posted by Calgarydetail

application of vintage is alittle difrent then alot of waxes on the market. I have tired diffrent methods... i have tried had application, foam applicator polishing pal... ect.

I have found the best method is to apply the wax via polishing pal that has been heated by a light. This allows a nice smooth even coat of wax to be applied.
I have found if the applictor is not heated it just dosent seem to spread and be applied probperly.Heat seems to be needed. not alot but some.

I apply vintage to the whole car (zymol says wait 5 minutes) I find by the time I have reached the end the begging is ready to be buffed.

It takes an itital buff to get most of the wax off. I then go over the whole car again ust to make it look better (i do this with any wax not just vintage)

now heres where we get tricky... after 3 to 4 hous the was is goign to "sweat" it seems to realse oils that need to be buffed off again. The oils looks like buffer trails.. its weird but thats the way it is.

So after waiting 3 or 4 hours the car needs a wipe down. You can use water, soap (anything that will not harmm the paint).. i have found the field glaze works best.... but the key to it is to do a wipe down 3-4 hours latter to level the wax as wel as clean up the residue...

Yeah it sounds labour intensive... its not as bad as it sounds.. but boy is it ever worth it... for those who use the less expensive zymols and swissvax's.. give it a try.; you may be surpised at how much better the paint comes out

Great tip, Ill try that!

[Calgarydetail]

Originally Posted by FMINUS

Great tip, Ill try that!

thanks, and if you do let me know how it goes. I know im a loser but im tryin to figure the est application and removal of ztmol products.. its becoming a hobby lol.. some people are intrested in stamps. i love wax... esp zymol waxes

[klumzypinoy]

Sounds like a neat application technique especially with the heated applicator pad.

[zoomzoom mazda5]

Great stuff on here! I had 4 washes and waxes (Deepswax)today and my arm is falling off! But they are all looking great.........

[Nica]

I agree with all that Calgarydetail has said about application of Vintage, but just to add my I personaly prefer using the Zymol Field Glase, maybe it's me but I feel it adds a bit extra to the final apperance...oh and I've only done this one and it was a recomendation from Clark from Polished Bliss UK. Leave Vintage over night (if you can) and it will remove just as good as if you waited 30 to 45min. like I said I've tried this only once and it worked quite well for me but then again it could have been my imagination running wild.

Oh last thing, I too am starting to have a nice wax collection...Calgary you and I should put our collection together when I have my collection complete that is

[Calgarydetail]

Originally Posted by Nica

I agree with all that Calgarydetail has said about application of Vintage, but just to add my I personaly prefer using the Zymol Field Glase, maybe it's me but I feel it adds a bit extra to the final apperance...oh and I've only done this one and it was a recomendation from Clark from Polished Bliss UK. Leave Vintage over night (if you can) and it will remove just as good as if you waited 30 to 45min. like I said I've tried this only once and it worked quite well for me but then again it could have been my imagination running wild.

Oh last thing, I too am starting to have a nice wax collection...Calgary you and I should put our collection together when I have my collection complete that is

well mines still growing nad always will. however i have a feeling that calgary has one of the worlds largest wax collections lol... maybe we should open a museum.....

ohh and when people ask if i collect anything i tell them wax

[Rubbish Boy]

As someone who has done some experimentation with carnauba, I thought I would add some things here, and hopefully not end up spamming the thread in the process.

Carnauba does shine, a piece of raw 100% carnauba, no solvent, no oils will indeed be cloudy and dull, but buff it and it will develop a nice shine and glow on the surface. Impossible to use on a car though in that state, although wood workers use it like this by rubbing a piece of raw carnauba onto the wood while it's say running on a lathe.

Carnauba on it's own is not useable as a car wax, it is too hard by miles, so the oil/solvent/other wax blend does indeed play a big role in the performance of the wax, probably much bigger than the carnauba itself.

Pure Carnauba is Yellow, the finest grade T1 is yellow. White carnauba is yellow that has been refined or bleached in some way. Sometimes it's made into a micronised powder and while still yellow it does look white becuase it's so fine. Here's a pic of some raw carnauba, this is T1 Yellow, best there is.


Claimed percentages by manuafacturers are indeed a joke. Take 75g of raw carnauba, melt it and add 25g of a solvent like xylene or maybe something stronger you would still end up with a wax too hard to use and not one I'd like on my car.

Some manufacturers use the percent by volume claim and mean it as Todd said in his first post, ie they are refering to the wax content. So they say 75% carnauba by volume and then the other 25% is bees wax or another wax, but this could actually only be a tiny percentage of the final product.

I also heard another way of claiming the percentage was they state the carnauba percentage when the final product has cured on the car. So when you have applied the wax and all the solvents have evaporated etc you are left with that amount of carnauba.

Now also there is this "By Volume" thing. Well carnauba is a solid ingredient so why by volume? In my experiments I only weigh everything because that is is the only way I am sure I am being accurate. 1g of carnauba does not equal 1ml of carnauba like water (almost) does. Also are they measuring the ingredients raw, melted, hot etc the density of all the ingredients will change with heat. And finally are they measuring powered carnauba or flakes. 100ml of flaked carnauba will weigh less that 100ml of powdered carnauba.

The no more than 10% that Todd stated in the first post I think could be a little low for some manfacturers IMO. I've personally managed about 35% carnauba of total product and still have a wax that you're able to apply although it's not the easiest to use. Different cooling techniques and processes, use of powdered carnauba can help, but the carnauba starts to cause problems at certain concentration levels as the blend becomes saturated with carnauba.

And here's a picture of a car wearing a wax which contains carnauba at 28% by weight of total product or 83% by weight of wax content, which ever way you like.

[togwt]

Wax Application – like most car care products Carnauba wax is designed to provide maximum results with minimum product application, most Carnauba waxes work well using the WOWO (wipe on wipe off) method while still slightly damp but not completely dry, generally apply a very thin layer, preferably with a distilled water primed foam applicator; allowing it to haze, then wiping off. I would suggest you do a swipe-test (swipe the surface with your finger, if the wax is still liquid wait for a while and repeat)

Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturers instructions on specific products) is usually more than sufficient, as wax doesn’t form a molecular bond like a polymer does this will allow the solvents to outgas, which will be dependant upon ambient temperature / humidity)

As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages.

1.The first stage is the application of the liquid product; friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidization, old waxes etc. In effect you are lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into the applicator.

2.The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers behind to dry and set-up on the paint.

3.The best way to determine if it is ready to be removed is to do the swipe test. Run your bare finger across the paint and if the product doesn't smear it is dry enough to be removed.

4.Next you remove the excess. Anything that is has not adhered to the paint will be wiped away with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a slight buff to bring out its gloss

5.A good technique is to buff the wax with a 100% cotton micro fibre cloth and then spritz the paintwork with cold distilled water and wipe down, this helps to set the wax and will add that little extra gloss. Allow the solvents to vaporise (outgas) in the suns heat (2 – 4 hours dependant upon climatic conditions) and then buff to a gloss. Carnauba wax provides better protection from bird / insect excrement than a polymer.

Humidity affects the application because Carnauba is inherently hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) if you notice dark streaks during the application of Carnauba waxes, it tells you that the humidity is high. This will also retard the set-up time, usually, if the car is left in the sun for a few minutes after the wax has been applied the streaks will disappear. Windy conditions affect the curing of the wax because winds move more oxygen across the waxed surface, curing it faster. If you must wax your car on a windy humid day, wax smaller sections at a time (one foot by one foot, 1ft = 12").

Surface Temperature (Actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50oF (10oC) and 80oF (26oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45° to 90° F (4.5-32oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21oC) range surrounding air temp (ambient or room)