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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 08:41 PM
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Color and Fragrance is of no value to me... the latter only attracts bugs...

Congrats and best wishes on your new exploration...
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:53 PM
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Sounds very interesting... good luck on making this work.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust2Glory View Post
Ooohhhhhh, can I get a sample when ready!?!

Who cares about color or smell,as they have no effect on gloss, shine or durability of wax.... Just focus in performance!!!
What he said. Congrads on makin the wax that is pretty darn cool
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sal329 View Post
What he said. Congrads on makin the wax that is pretty darn cool
As long as it doesn't small like cow turds.
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:07 PM
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Agreed smell is'nt a prerequisite, but if your wife or other better half gets a whiff, who knows, she may even help you. Thanks for sharing and wish you a clear path on this sojourn.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:17 PM
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I agree with only worrying about performance. It'd be nice if the smell wasn't unpleasant.

Also, if you need a tester, I'd be happy to test a sample for you.
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Old 08-28-2008, 06:40 AM
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Looks like a good effort there. As Dom has already high-lighted about solvents you will need something in it that keeps the carnauba soft enough to spread and then also evaporates to allow it bond and cure/setup. Now you may already have an oil in there doing that job, but you can have natural solvents, even water can be classed as a solvent.

I'm not sure you will get the full effect from the micronised carnauba in the home lab. One of the ways this seems to work is by carefully controlling the temperature. You would add it to a solvent at a certain temperature and it would dissolve. If you over heat the wax it becomes just like it does when you use normal melted flakes and it will crystalise, if you go too low it won't dissolve. Once it's dissolved and at the correct temperature you then have to cool if very carefully to stop it crystalising, if you can't control the heat precisely, then you may as well use normal melted flakes.
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:59 AM
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Thanks Ben.

Rambling thoughts.... Welcome to my mind.....

Research and locating items.. Montan wax? It's derived thru a chemical process and not used by a large majority of manufacturers. I think Candellila can do that job. And not too much of it also. As for natural waxes and carrier oils, Jojoba seemed to be a good one, but with an average price of around $60 / Gal. if you can locate it.

Paraffin. Byproduct of crude refining. Sounds good, it's used by a lot of companies, but a desperation measure to me. White gas could also work. As for Limonene, you and others will spread the wax on your hands, If I used only that, I'd think it would be to astringent for someone. I've been checking the MSDS on the products too. Limonene has a lower flash point that Carnauba melts at, giving it a good ability to layer the waxes then dissipate away. Other items that come to mind... Pine oil, Alcohol...

Silk.. sounds interesting, but only in an emulsion. Then you get into the emulsion waxes.....

Zinc can be a UV blocker. Could be that some people do use it.

OK, if I wanted to just throw something into a tin, I'd start with Carnauba / Beeswax, as that cools to it's melting temp of about 180 deg. F, then I'd pour in a turpene. or citrus oil. Rates of cooling: I haven't seen a difference with my blend yet, whether leaving it at room temp to cool, or throwing it into the refrigerator for a more rapid cool down.

Furniture and Floor paste wax. A lot of it is so cheap. Just basic Carnauba and a solvent. Granted the solvents have been used for years and their safe to use. When I open a can of auto wax or a bottle, besides the fragrance you can get a whiff of a solvent. Cleaner waxes, solvents to remove surface contamination and prior old wax. Paste shoe wax,, all using Carnauba.

I think it boils down to having the wax in a small molecular size, spread out as evenly as possible, and delivered to the surface by a product that will leave. Once the carrier is gone, the action of friction causes the wax to burnish and join. How Beeswax and Carnauba join on a molecular level I will never know. I doubt if they do.

I checked my Dodo waxes this morning, unique colours and smell. Feels great to the finger. Applies nice. That took a while to arrive at. Yes, making a homemade concoction is daunting... one hour I'm OK with it, the next hour says to just buy some.. others have done their homework and I'm trying to copy their work. But the older I get the worse it is to quit and walk away from something, I think I can do. So time to step back, and quit trying to remake the wheel in one day. It's not as easy as it seems.....probably will be the day I say I can't do it.
/mind off
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Old 08-28-2008, 11:06 AM
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Your mind seems to work much the same as mine

Emulsions are seemingly more trouble than they worth although that could be the trick guys aren't letting on to. UV blockers are interesting too although I haven't managed to turn up much info on quantities and ratios and haven't delved much deeper into it than briefly in passing and looking through chemical brochures.

As for the controlled cooling I have my suspicions but can't confirm until I have tried a few variations myself. What I can say however is the batch I did make using the slightly controlled cooling method are all smooth without any crystals or heavy grainyness. Maybe it's par for the course but only testing will tell
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Old 08-28-2008, 11:09 AM
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One day at a time.... Its better to know excatly what u want in the end product so that u have an actual goal to achieve, otherwise u r wasting ur time because u have no clear idea....

Take some and sit back, look through all the waxes u have and decide what about them u like and use that, I'm excited for u
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