[togwt]

Layering Wax and ‘Spit Shining’

Recommended Products
In the interest of full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated with, employed by, have any vested interest, or in any way receive compensation from the sale or distribution of the product lines reviewed or the company that manufactures or markets it.

Results Obtained
These articles are not intended to warrant or guarantee any results with any of the products mentioned. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned. The author does not provide, nor guarantee and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only.

Proper Technique
A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result.

Skill Level / Experience
Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein.

Liability
The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered.

Product Quality and Technique
Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. There is no `one correct way' to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them their desired results.

Aesthetics
The aesthetics- of a vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder

Research
Research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts?

Detailing products
Should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors'. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon, so I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

Can you ‘Layer’ a Wax?
There is a lot of discussion about whether or not it is possible to layer Carnauba on a paint surface, it works on leather boots and in my experience it also works, up to a point, on a cars paint service. “When you apply fixed and variable inputs beyond a point or limit, the out come will be less and less utility with each additional unit”; which basically signifies that beyond a certain number of layers you are no longer providing more shine nor increasing durability.

I prefer the word ‘film’ as opposed to ‘layer’, a film more accurately describes a thinly applied sealant or wax, were as a layer tends to describe a thicker covering. Some specialty paint protection systems can have subsequent film added to increase protection and paint appearance, systems must set-up or cross-link prior to application of subsequent coats. Depending on the product type (polymer sealant or Carnauba wax) times vary from a few hours to days.

Usually a wax with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer; but if you apply another low-solvent product (Victoria Concours Wax - Victoria Wax) on top of one that has already set-up (i.e. the solvents have evaporated) you can increase its density (up to a point) two to three applications are usually considered optimum One thing that will negate the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains the vehicle’s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint, which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to show through and provide the colour with depth.

Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted. One of the problems with ‘layering’ some polymers is that they tend to occlude (become less opaque) as the thickness increases

The viscosity of the previous layer requires more solvent to significantly melt away than the next applied wax layer can contain The carrier system allows the product to fill and level the paint film surface to produce a flat surface (this flat level surface is more pronounced with polymers due to their Covalent (molecular) alignment characteristics). This level surface optimises the paint film surface's desired optical properties (i.e. surface reflectance, clarity, gloss, and depth of shine)

Another ‘layering’ technique- apply a liquid Carnauba wax (liquid wax usually contains polymer and solvents) and allow to set-up (usually 1-2 hours, do a smear test to endure that its dry.

Then a apply to a paste Carnauba wax; allow the solvents to evaporate for 2-4 hours, and finally buff surface with a 100% cotton towel to produce jetting (a ‘wet-look’ shine) - http//: DF Concours cotton microfiber towels | auto detailing products | water filters | glass and surface cleaners

Wax- two coats to ensure even coverage (maximum is four) a wax cures (hardens when the solvents have evaporated ) usually 25-45 minuets then you can apply the second coat (ensure that there are no solvents left by doing a smear test otherwise the solvents in the second coat will remove the first) (See also Spit Shine)

Paste wax – use a low-solvent wax (Victoria Concours Wax, Souverän or P21S) is just a thicker form of liquid wax, just a different consistency, not necessarily more or less solvents. Some wax products use an emulsion to keep more liquid without adding solvents which, in high concentrations could remove the underlying wax too rapidly to allow the "melting" together of the wax" strata.

Polymers- most contain a mineral or silicone oils that are use as a lubrication system, in a solvent based carrier system (these may also be in the form of an oil / water emulsion) and by the nature of this product they need to vaporise / dissipate and then its needs to cross-link (this is time dependant (unless a catalyst is added) and is quite separate from the drying process

To my knowledge, all polymer sealants are based on an emulsion system containing silicone oils. Zaino Show Car Polish is the only polymer sealant that I'm aware of that is not based on the element silicone (its lubrication system is a polymer) it contains reactive resins that cross-link and provide long-term durability and can therefore be successfully layered (a new application of Zaino Show Car Polish does not remove previous applications). Zaino also has an ultra violet (UV) protection added

Solvents / Oils - provide a lubricant and aid the adherence process by working their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the previous `layer' softening it, providing each subsequent applications carrying agent (solvent, oils silicones or emulsion) are not so concentrated that they degrade or remove (as in the case of a cleaner wax) what has been previously applied.

Also be aware that the both the product and the foam pad may be non-abrasive, but application pressure if not kept to an absolute minimum and using use a very light and even pressure, may re-introduce surface marring and/or removal of the previously applied product by friction. (See also Spit Shining, Wax (Hand applied) Solvents)

'Spit Shining’
Not as lurid as it sounds, (no actual spitting is involved) I learned how to spit shine boots in the Royal Air Force (RAF), but for those of you who’ve never done it I’ll briefly describe how to spit shine boots to a mirror finish. You’ll need a can of Kiwi shoe wax, a bag of cotton balls, and some cold water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little more wax and repeat. Re-moisten the cotton ball as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball, it takes several layers (maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine.

It’s obvious that the wax builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to flake.

Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Carnauba wax to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers. Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it

Usually, a wax with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer, so use a Carnauba that is not formulated with a high solvent content (Pinnacle Souverän) Using a damp applicator and cold (almost ice) distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle neutralizes any solvents in the newly applied layer; the water should be cold, using ice cold water after applying a wax will harden the wax quicker making the shine deeper and help the new wax adhere to the finish, working until the water/ wax solution disappears.

The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray fine mists of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a light Carnauba wax to the paint surface.

Always apply extremely thin layers using a very light pressure when spit shining, Wipe it onto a small work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed, keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the very cold distilled water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.

When you spray very cold water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat.

Allow each subsequent Carnauba waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.

After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal

Information resource-Information resource- based on information in a post by NickT on Autopia.org- Spit shine your car - - - technique revisited - Autopia.org
And a method used to shine military (RAF) uniform dress shoes


Zymol Carnauba Waxes and Glazes
Zymol and Swissvax do not endorse the use of an applicator for use with their Estate waxes and glazes for optimum results. They use natural Môn tan oils as opposed to solvent oils, applying them with a foam applicator would absorb some of this oil perhaps having a detrimental effect on its aesthetics. One of the main reasons given for using a foam applicator is to avoid waiting the required three hours in a warm climate / environment to buff the surface a second time to remove any excess oil

Hand application –
Is an essential step that should be utilized in order to soften the compound and also to spread the wax without excessive waste? Estate waxes and glazes in their latent state are enzymes and when used the heat transfer from the warmth of the hands acts as a catalyst to turn the product into a wax ready for application. You need patience for this process; it is time consuming to apply wax with bare hands (don’t forget to remove rings) but the results are worth it. Use soft latex gloves; they are effective because latex will not scratch, and will prevent wax from soaking into your hands, it also helps prevent accidental marring from rough palms and from finger nails.

Put a very small amount of the glaze to the palm of your hand. Use the warmth of your hands to melt and activate the Carnauba wax, as in its latent state its an enzyme and when used the heat transfer from the warmth of the hands acts as a catalyst to turn the product into a wax ready for application. With your hand, gently apply the glaze in a light, even singular direction pattern over no more than three or four-square feet of painted surface.

Let stand for 30 to 60 seconds. Using moderate to heavy pressure, wipe very slowly with a 100% Cotton Micro-fibre Alpine DF-Towel™ (folded once) to a brilliant lustre before wax is totally dry. Wait three to four hours, to ensure all the solvents have out gassed and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine.

Enzymes (or proteins)
Is a catalyst that increases the rate of a chemical reaction. Propolis is an enzyme found in beeswax (a secondary component found in most car waxes). Collected by Bee's it comprises approximately 55% resinous compounds and balms, 30% beeswax, 10% aromatic essential oils, and 5% bee pollen and is used as a binding agent. (See Zymol estate glazes)When used in a car wax enzymes, when heated cause the wax to set-up.

Alternative products –
•Swissvax Concorso / Best of Show - http://www.detailersdomain.com
•Zymol Vintage Estate Glaze - Zymol Car Care Products & Accessories
•Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba – http//:We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store
•Victoria Concours Red Wax - Victoria Wax


Information resource -

1.“Why apply wax with bare hands?” by David Wyllie
2.Zymol and Swissvax Internet websites
3.Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist"– by Jon Miller

© TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved

Detailing Articles
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[dervdave]

SIT shining eh ?
The spelling mistake could`ve been a lot worse I suppose
Excellent post otherwise

[MadOzodi]

Good read as always. About how long would it take to spit shine a medium sized 4-door sedan?

[Buddy]

This was very usefull and interesting to me. The information and possiblities are endless to what you can achieve...
I would rate this a 5

[SpecC]

i'll be trying this today. thanks for the write up

[togwt]

Originally Posted by SpecC

i'll be trying this today. thanks for the write up

Once you've finished your feedback would be great as to how easy the How-To was to follow etc . . .

[radstoy]

Your explanations are rather exhaustive to say the least. I am thankful for the information but at the sametime somewhat overwhelmed. Keep up the good work and I look forward to further learning at your feet.

[supercharged]

very useful information, thanks, TOGWT!!!

[mrgolfrider]

wow, quite a write up, very informative for newbies like me looking to soak up info.

[togwt]

Originally Posted by mrgolfrider

wow, quite a write up, very informative for newbies like me looking to soak up info.

Check out the TOGWT articles in the Detailing School section, should keep you reading / learning for awhile