[Nica]

Okay I got the product right infront of me the name of the product is Pro Form Wax and Grase Remover.

Here are some pictures:











Sorry for the blury pictures but at least you'll be able to get a few information from the pictures.

So my friend uses this for just about everything in his shop.

[Calgarydetail]

why do you have that carlos? I understand wanthing everything but body shop poducts? are you planning on taking marco polos advice?

[Nica]

Originally Posted by Calgarydetail

why do you have that carlos? I understand wanthing everything but body shop poducts? are you planning on taking marco polos advice?

um....maybe don't know yet...my friend said I could use his shop any time I wanted...well almost anytime I want it's always good to try something new and learn more good stuff

[sneek]

Prepsol is always good for removing tar, bugs, random things that you get on your paint. I don't see why you wouldn't want to have some in your collection. I am thinking about that 5 gallon bucket of body solvent....seems like a good deal.

[Nica]

Originally Posted by ZoranC

Ask him how is that any gentler on paint than 50/50 alcohol would be.

Well when I told my friend that I was using a 50/50 alcohol wipe down after I polished he recommended that I stop using the 50/50 alcohol mix and use this product instead. He said that on some vehicles a 50/50 alcohol wipe down is not a good idea. I've used this product once or twice and if you ask me it does the same thing as the alcohol wipe down perhaps a bit safer but again I was following my friends suggestion..he knows more about this then me...as for the oils on the clear coat...that he had mix feelings about. This is what my friend said...oils don't penetrate through the clear coat, oils are basically on the surface of the clear coat but never go through to the paint it's self...so what you said about car shows I agree with you.

I can see where an alcohol wipe down would not be good on a single stage paint because your literally applying it to the paint and I can see the oils being good for single stage paint but on clear coat I would agree with my friend...but like I said he had mix feelings about that and admitted that he never paid much attention to the clear coat...he says that clear coat is just a protection but that's about all I could get from him about the oils on clear coat

My other friend that works at a different body shop said the same thing, you can't go through the clear coat with oils don't know that's two guys that work on vehicle painting them day in and day out and they are saying the same thing about clear coats and oils

Now don't go thinking they are always right because they could be out to lunch on this but it is interesting

[Nica]

Next time I pass by his shop I'll ask him again why he told me not to use the alcohol (50/50) method..I just can't recall the reason I just remember him recomending not to use it...maybe there was no reason I'll ask

[togwt]

1.Using oil on an oil-based paint system (single stage and especially lacquers) would avoid oxidation (drying out)

2.Water-based paint (due to VOC regulations 99% of US paints) do not need oil to 'feed' the paint to prevent oxidation( despite what Zymol marketing want you to believe)

3.If you apply oil to a water-based polyurethane paint (clear coat) most of the particles used in oils cannot permeate polyurethane as its pores are smaller and the oil will 'sit' on the surface, which will not cause problems for wax products, but will not allow a polymer to cross-link.

4.Alcohol in the form of IPA will remove the oils, which may act as filler, giving the false appearance of a defect-free surface.

5.Oils may have a detrimental effect on polyurethane by causing its adhesive bond to ‘lift’, as a very small proportion of the particulates will be small enough to permeate.

Items 3 and 5 also apply to leather products when used on covered leather upholstery

[MWAUTOPRO]

Some obeservations. Some polishes like #80 allow other polishes to work easier. Some cars upon arriaval have a very "dry" clear coat, a lot of polishes gum up on them, if you go over it first with 80, the other polishes will work better. Even #7 will make a lot of polishes "work better".

I did a C320 a while back and it had been improperly washed a lot and was swirled terribly. All of my compunds wouldnt phase it, then I speed glazed it and then compounded/polished and it worked fine.

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Originally Posted by MWAUTOPRO

Some obeservations. Some polishes like #80 allow other polishes to work easier. Some cars upon arriaval have a very "dry" clear coat, a lot of polishes gum up on them, if you go over it first with 80, the other polishes will work better. Even #7 will make a lot of polishes "work better".

I did a C320 a while back and it had been improperly washed a lot and was swirled terribly. All of my compunds wouldnt phase it, then I speed glazed it and then compounded/polished and it worked fine.

I think thats because whatever the person put on the car had silicons in it. Ive had that problem before too.

[MWAUTOPRO]

How would silicons effect how polishes work out of curiosity?

Also a lot of the pontiacs respond better if they get a pure polish first, not sure if anyone else has noticed that.