[Nica]

Originally Posted by MWAUTOPRO

Some obeservations. Some polishes like #80 allow other polishes to work easier. Some cars upon arriaval have a very "dry" clear coat, a lot of polishes gum up on them, if you go over it first with 80, the other polishes will work better. Even #7 will make a lot of polishes "work better".

I did a C320 a while back and it had been improperly washed a lot and was swirled terribly. All of my compunds wouldnt phase it, then I speed glazed it and then compounded/polished and it worked fine.

Wow and I thought I was the only one that noticed this, I've only seen this happend to me once and man was it ever a pain...mmmm...it was in the summer, I can't remember what I did though? I know I used something prior to polishing the vehicle but I honestly can't remember. I'm going to have to keep a close eye on this should it ever happen again, thank you for sharing.

So your saying you used Meg's #80 interesting

[MWAUTOPRO]

Yeah meguiars 80 is one of my favorite products ever. I have gone through 4 gallons of it since I have started detailing but lately all of the cars I have been doing have had harder CC's so I quit buying it. (Still have a pint on stand by)

Its only problem is that if works great on softer paints but on harder paints it is useless as an abrasive polish, it still cleans the paint for paint sealant/wax.

[Nica]

Originally Posted by MWAUTOPRO

Yeah meguiars 80 is one of my favorite products ever. I have gone through 4 gallons of it since I have started detailing but lately all of the cars I have been doing have had harder CC's so I quit buying it. (Still have a pint on stand by)

Its only problem is that if works great on softer paints but on harder paints it is useless as an abrasive polish, it still cleans the paint for paint sealant/wax.

To be honest I've never used Meg's #80 in fact, I don't recall ever using Meg's products for paint correction...mmm...maybe #83 once but I can't remember good to know though.

Thank you for sharing.

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Originally Posted by MWAUTOPRO

How would silicons effect how polishes work out of curiosity?

Well like I said, the same thing happened to me and the guys said silicon must be on the paint, which is a pain to remove. Basically it made the polish gum up immediately and I couldn't work it at all.

I dont think clear coats dry out.

[togwt]

Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detailing

Well like I said, the same thing happened to me and the guys said silicon must be on the paint, which is a pain to remove. Basically it made the polish gum up immediately and I couldn't work it at all.

I dont think clear coats dry out.

Quote: It is impossible to remove silicon from a painted surface without using a chemical process so aggressive that it dissolves the paint. Wax and grease removers will chemically remove one layer of silicon off at a time but are unable to completely remove all the silicon. Tests by Dr Michael Hauber at Menzerna using a spectroscope showed the layers become thinner but the silicon remains. Removing silicon completely can take place over time and involves a lengthy process of oxygen, chemicals, time and sunlight."

There is a need to differentiate between swirl marks in the silicon layer and swirl marks in the paint surface underneath. Some polishes may appear to remove the swirl marks in the paint but are really only working on the layer of silicon, so the swirl marks in the paint surface remain unaffected by polishing. Menzerna

Use Hi-Temp's Prep Wash to prepare a paint surface for polishing, compounding, wax and / or polymer sealant application (especially if changing from a wax to a polymer product) this is a water-based paint cleaner designed to remove all traces of silicone, oil, and buffing residue from any exterior paint surface, residue from polishing products accumulate in crevices, around handles, wiper arms, on trim, luggage racks, and aerodynamics. Hi-Temp's Prep Wash flows into these hard-to-reach areas and dissolves the build-up.

Hi-Temp's Prep Wash can be used to cleanse the finish before painting, and you can use it after buffing or levelling applications. It prepares the surface for the proper bonding of waxes, glazes and paint sealants. If this is not done properly, applied products may not bond, which will cause heavy streaking. It may be diluted, but is always used sparingly at any strength. Mist a cloth or sponge and wipe over the surface. Wipe dry with a clean towel. Hi-Temp's Prep Wash - Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies.




Quote -I dont think clear coats dry out."

Two stage paint system- (base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out or oxidize). The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out the paint.

The clear coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) water-based paint is not a solid coating and is porous, oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer (i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to single stage paint.