[reefer_bob]

...for the first time?

I've seen a number of 'pad lubes' to eliminate any hazing from a pad that's not filled with product yet.

I haven't come across a good method yet, and tend to put like a dozen or more pea sized blobs of product on the pad and smear them around with my fingers.

This seems to work well, but the down side is I end up with too much product on the car initally.

I've also tried spritzing with some Quick Detailer, but I'm kinda leary of this method as I don't want to introduce additional silicones into the product.

Thoughts?

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Nothing.

[sneek]

Depends on the product. Most of them you can feel pretty safe making a circle of product and smearing it around. On the rotary I usually like to rinse out a pad first, because there is always excess dust, squeeze out as much water as possible then give it a spin. from that point you can either use some product to prime your pad..or you could use #34 final inspection. I use the final inspection because it is body shop safe and I like to pick up lines of product.

[eShine]

I soak the pad all the way through with water. I then squeeze out all I can by hand, wrap it in a clean terry towel then squeeze it while it is in the towel, lastly I spin dry inside an empty bucket (To prevent the water from slinging everywhere). The pad will be flexible and moist but not wet enough to thin the product enough or sling. Other methods like pad conditioners only dampen the face of the pad where the rest of the pad is still dry/hard.

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Originally Posted by eShine

I soak the pad all the way through with water. I then squeeze out all I can by hand, wrap it in a clean terry towel then squeeze it while it is in the towel, lastly I spin dry inside an empty bucket (To prevent the water from slinging everywhere). The pad will be flexible and moist but not wet enough to thin the product enough or sling. Other methods like pad conditioners only dampen the face of the pad where the rest of the pad is still dry/hard.

Thats what I do too sometimes with warm water, or put it under the halogens. But I was only thinking of priming as using some QD or putting the polish on the pad first. Both of which I do not do and dont see a need to do.

[Asphalt Rocket]

Depends on the pad, wool i just put the peoduct on the vehicle and work it in from there, foam I will put a couple dabs on the pad itself. I use nothing else to prime a pad.

[Smith2287]

For my pads I have that XMT pad conditioner in the spray bottle. I just mist it on once or twice and never had a problem.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

When polishing = Water, pretty much as described by eshine

I very rarely use a machine for LSP but when/if I do:

applying a wax = OCW

applying a sealant = AW951

	LSP Last Step Product, meaning protection either wax or sealant.

[Nica]

mmm...interesting information being shared here but I just use the product (polish) to prime the pad weather it's wool or foam, I haven't had any problems so far but that's just my

Look forward on reading from others

[Grouse]

wash it in the washing machine. air dry on low. put x on pad and polish. when it gets full grab new pad.